***First connection to stainless steel receiver must be Brass***
Locating Pump: Install the pump in a clean, dry, well ventilated and drained location. The top of the pump
receiver should be below the lowest return since it is best to keep the return lines dry. If receiver inlet is
above the lowest return line, the return will be wet and the system will not free itself of air, as well as noises
Piping: Connect returns to inlet of receiver with a gate valve in each return and a union or flange joint next to
receiver. Connect discharge of pump to boiler using a union, spring loaded check valve and gate valve; with
the spring loaded check valve as close to pump as possible. If discharge line is longer than 50 feet, use pipe
one size larger. Piping must be of proper length and size to prevent any strain upon the unit.
Wiring: The electrical connections between the motor, float switch and automatic starter (if furnished) are
made at the factory. Connect the electric service to the float switch or automatic starter using conduit and
wire sizes as required by local power companies. Provide a fused main line switch in motor circuit.
CAUTION: The motor is wired and connected at the factory to operate on the voltage specified. If voltage is
other than originally specified, consult motor manufacturer’s instructions accompanying unit for proper
wiring. Where a poly phase motor is furnished with only a float switch.IT WILL BE NECESSARY TO INSTALL A
SUITABLE PHASE PROTECTOR SWITCH IN THE MOTOR CIRCUIT TO PREVENT MOTOR BURNOUTS SHOULD
A SINGLE PHASE CONDITION OCCUR.
Fuses: Be sure fuses are installed which comply in size with National Electrical Code recommendations.
When a fuse blows out, it indicates that something is wrong either in the motor, pump, switch, fuse rating or
electric service. Do not replace fuse until the cause for its blow out has been determined. If thermal cut-out is
used, and element with a maximum tripping current rating 50% greater than a motor nameplate Amps. may
be selected. Condensate boiler feed pumps are only operating intermittently and therefore it is permissible.
CAUTION: New or repaired heating systems should be operated several days with the returns open to sewer
until water appears clear, in order to thoroughly flush and clean the lines and prevent clogging of the pump
when it is put in operation. This may take a few days to two weeks. This pump is equipped with a mechanical
seal instead of the conventional type of packing. BE sure that pump receiver is filled with condensate before
starting because the mechanical seal will be damaged in run dry.
None required from pump proper. However the vertical motor is ball bearing type with
pre-sealed and lubricated bearing, and no immediate lubrication is necessary. Required lubrication depends
upon what service pump is subjected to and cleanliness of location. When motor bearings become noisy,
lubrication or replacement of ball bearing becomes necessary.
1. Check motor shaft and be sure it rotates
freely. If shaft is tight, inspect pump end and
motor for foreign matter clogging pump or
lodging in motor.
2. Check voltage supply and be sure it is the
same as motor on pump, or same as wiring
connections made at factory.
3. Be sure piping connections to pump have
been made as per instructions and that air vent
pipe from receiver is open to atmosphere.
4. Be sure that the engineering
characteristics of the complete pump are identical
to the capacity discharge pressure and other
requirement of the system.
5. Be sure that the float in the receiver is
free to operate float switch.
Starting: Open valves in discharge and return
lines, close valves in drain lines and close fused
knife switch. If an automatic starter with selector
switch is installed, be sure selector switch button
is in “Auto” position.
1. With vent pipe open to atmosphere, air and
vapor can escape as fast as condensation flows
into receiver. If vent is not open, or restricted,
receiver will not fill.
2. Be sure pump and motor rotate in proper
direction. Correct direction of rotation
is CLOCKWISE when looking at top of motor. (if
rotation is reversed, refer to motor instruction card
and change proper leads.)
3. Check motor bearing for overhearing.
4. Check float switch to see that it starts and stops
motor as receiver fills and empties.
5. Check all piping connections for leaks.
6. Observe operation of unit closely for several
hours after first starting and at regular intervals for
several days. A new unit is frequently stiff and
bearings are tight and therefore should be watched
to check performance.
1. Inspection: To insure best operation of unit,
make a systematic inspection at least once a
2. Cleanliness: Keep the interior and exterior of
motor and automatic switches free from
moisture, oil and dirt. If necessary, use
compressed air for blowing out dirt.
Occasionally drain and flush pump receiver to
remove sediment and pipe scale.
3. Automatic Switches: Occasionally examine
contacts of automatic switches and see that
they make a full firm contact and break the
circuit quickly. Be sure all terminal
connections are tight and not corroded.
4. Mechanical Shaft Seal: Occasionally examine
water slinger on motor shaft and look for
water leakage. Any leakage will also be
visibly on seal plate. Leakage in dictates that
the seal surfaces are worn and need
replacement. (For proper procedure in
replacing these parts, refer to instructions
under Disassembly of Pump.) CAUTION
NEVER OPERATE PUMP WHEN
RECEIVER IS EMPTY, BECAUSE THE
SEAL WILL BE DAMAGED IF RUN DRY.
5. Shutting Down: At end of heating season
open main switch, close valves in return line
and discharge piping and drain receiver and
pump. If necessary, cover electric motor and
automatic switches to protect them against
dirt, oil and moisture.
6. Caution: Never operate pump when receiver
is empty or expose it to freezing temperature
when filled with water.
TO REMOVE PUMP AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY:
1 - Remove top fitting on pump vent line.
2 - Disconnect wires and flexible conduit at motor terminal box or at float switch, whichever is more
3 - Remove motor bracket nuts.
4 - Lift motor & pump unit from pump housing.
1 - Remove drip cover from top end of motor. Note slot or two (2) flat spots on motor shaft. Use screwdriver
to open end wrench to hold motor shaft securely.
2 - Remove Impeller lock screw (on 3 phase model only), turning lock screw CLOCKWISE. Omit the
operation on a single phase model.
3 - Remove Impeller by turning COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Impeller hub is threaded and screws into motor
4 - Remove Rotating seal assembly by sliding along motor shaft.
1 - Pump and motor unit must be completely dismantled as indicated on page 3 in steps 1 to 4 inclusive.
2 - Remove ceramic stationary seal seat and vibration ring plate.
3 - Be sure to counter-bore in plate is perfectly clean before inserting new ceramic seat and ring.
4 - Attach pate to motor.
5 - Use a light oil on the entire diameter of vibration ring and press it together with the ceramic seat into the
machined bore of plate. Press as far as it will go and be sure it is in proper place with the seat surface at a
perfect 90o angle with respect to respect to motor shaft. Use caution so as NOT to SCRATCH or MAR
lapped surfaces of ceramic seat.
6 - Oil lower end of motor shaft and slip rotating seal assembly on motor shaft as far as it will go. Again use
caution so as not to SCRATCH or MAR lapped surface of carbon ring.
7 - Hold top end or motor shaft with screwdriver or open end wrench and screw Impeller CLOCKWISE
onto motor shaft until tight.
8 - Replace lockscrew (on 3 phase model only) and turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until tight.
9 - Replace gasket and set pump and motor assembly over studs and onto pump housing. Tighten stud nuts.
10 - Reconnect wiring and flexible conduit from motor to switch.
11 - NEVER RUN PUMP WITH RECEIVER EMPTY, BECAUSE BOTH ELEMENTS OF MECHANICAL SHAFT SEAL WILL BE DAMAGED.
Should trouble develop with the unit, the information given below may enable the operator to locate it and
correct it without the aid of a factory service man.
NO CONDENSATE DISCHARGE
1 - Not enough condensate in tank to prime
2 - Speed too low.
3 - Discharge head too high.
4 - Impeller loose on shaft, plugged or worn.
5 - Wrong direction of rotation.
EXCESSIVE POWER CONSUMPTION
1 - Speed too high.
2 - Loose wiring connections.
3 - Mechanical defects:
(a) Motor shaft bent.
(b) Rotating element binds.
(c) Foreign elements between impeller and
INSUFFICIENT CONDENSATE DISCHARGE
1 - Air or water leak at Mech. shaft seal or gasket.
2 - Plugged pump vent line.
3 - Speed too low.
4 - Discharge head higher than anticipated.
5 - Impeller loose on shaft, plugged or worn.
6 - Wearing Rings worn.
7 - Wrong direction to rotation.
PUMP DOES NOT START
1 - Motor lead connections may be wired wrong.
2 - Blown fuses in disconnect switch.
3 - Bad coil in starter
4 - Loose connection in disconnect switch, starter, float switch or motor leads.
5 - Overload protection in starter or motor damaged or not Re-set.
6 - Rotating assembly bound. Try turning motor shaft from top side of motor with screw driver
or open end wrench.
PUMP IS NOISY
1 - Bearings are bad (these are sealed ball bearings in motor.)
2 - Pump may be operating at a low enough head to be in cavitation range. Cavitation sounds like
pebbles rattling in a pail. Throttle discharge valve to correct pressure and lock. (If cavitation
noise disappears it may be wise to install a smaller diameter impeller, reduce speed, or install
on orifice or venture on discharge).
3 - Pump is operating too near shut-off head. Check discharge piping to lower the head. If this
cannot be accomplished, contact factory.
4 - Internal parts rubbing.
5 - Motor has magnetic hum or high windage noises. Check with motor manufacturer.
LOSS OF SUCTION FOLLOWING PERIOD OF SATISFACTORY OPERATION
1 - Air leak at mechanical shaft seal or pump gasket.
2 - Pump vent line plugged
3 - Air or gasses in condensate or condensate too hot.